Wednesday, August 15

Shellness, Isle of Sheppey

It was a sunny Sunday so Sue and I went in search of a beach. First thought was Margate - lovely sandy beaches with safe swimming, an art gallery and the regenerated old town with its shops and cafes. But nearly three hours on the train, and probably a couple to drive, which I wasn't keen on.

Whitstable? More accessible but muddy beaches and lots of DFLs (Down from London) to which we would add a couple more.

So with nothing more than a vague idea of what we would find, we headed for the Isle of Sheppey simply because someone we knew had told us she was going there a couple of days ago, and frankly what's good enough for her should be good enough for us. Plus it was less than an hour to drive and I knew the way!

Well it took us a while to find the good bit of Sheppey, but we got there in the end. We rejected Sheerness beach because it was too exposed, and Minster for the same reason. Heading towards Leysdown we discovered it was everything that we suspected it might be - rows of chalets, karaoke bars, fish and chip shops and acres of badly-dressed white flesh.


But the secret is not to give up - continue to the end of the road and you will discover a landscape without chalets and largely devoid of people too. This is Shellness and the coastal park.


We followed the coast past a smattering of ramshackle beach houses, some of them nothing more than shacks, others tarted up and obviously well used. Some had boats in the garden, others were surrounded by huge rosemary bushes, evening primrose, and arty sculptures made of flotsam and jetsam.



The following stretch takes you through the naturist beach - best to be aware of it so that you can take it in your stride, so to speak. It was quite busy when we passed by, a mixture of couples and families dotted among the sand-dunes and a number of single men standing proudly (some quite literally, ahem) next to their windbreaks.

Beyond the naturist beach is the private hamlet of Shellness, all fenced off quite aggressively with signs everywhere. But the land is only private above the high water mark, so you can walk around the beach quite easily and peer into their windows if you like

It's worth doing so, because the beaches beyond are full of shells, with sandy stretches, and lovely views over to Whitstable. It's a peaceful and quiet place, with very few people passing by, and only the sound of the waves and the plaintive cries of Oyster Catchers and Curlews. We earmarked a walk for our next visit, taking in Harty Ferry and the Ferry House Inn when we have more time.


It's a peaceful and quiet place, with very few people passing by, and only the sound of the waves and the plaintive cries of Oyster Catchers and Curlews for company.


We earmarked a walk for our next visit, taking in Harty Ferry and the Ferry House Inn when we have more time. Colleen has written about this part of the island a few times, in a way that makes me yearn to visit it.

We never got our swim in the end - the sea was way out beyond the muddy flats and the breeze was quite stiff. But it was a glorious end to the day after such an unpromising start, and we came back with pockets full of shells and beach debris.

28 comments:

colleen said...

Excellent that you made it to Sheppey. We were down there last weekend because we wanted to see a few birds (most had gone to Africa). The island is so pretty and at the same time flaky! Know exactly what you mean about the naturist beach, ahem... stopped me in my tracks and never got as far as Shellness!

deptford pudding said...

Oi! That's my ramshackle rosemary bush!

Knit Nurse said...

@deptford pudding I love that particular shack! Can I pop in for a cuppa next time I pass by?

Anonymous said...

hello! im a resident of Shellness. im sorry to hear that we were fairly rude its just that we get so many strangers out here and most of them are rude and arrogant. we then take many precautions as there are young children there, I was once one of them and we want them as safe as possible

Anonymous said...

Oh I would love to have one of those beach properties at that end of the island. Can't find out who owns them though. Oh for the peace and sea breeze in my hair.......... Kim

kitkat said...

Hi...next time you visit the isle of Sheppey you must pop into my fabric,knitting and haberdashery shop in Sheerness High Street
https://www.facebook.com/fabricsagogo/
Katrina

Ian Clatke said...

Hi glad u enjoyed your visit. I am one of the lucky ones who have discovered the beautiful area. I am a naturist by the way. I'm also a single man but gladly I have never been one of the pervy exhibitionists who relish in the thought that someone may be happy to see their wrinkled bits. I go there purely for the peace, beautiful surroundings and my free all over tan. I have given marching orders to undesirable pervy folk who think it's ok to act indencently there.
I love the huge range of shells that can be found on the beach and the fresh breeze can be amazing. I have often thought about wandering down to the hamlet end and having a nose (fully dressed of course). I have done a quick search on the interweb and discovered that in the last five years, only two properties have been sold there. With a price range between £70k and £100. The thought of having a little home to hide away to is a dream. I have spoke to a couple of locals from the hamlet and they are really nice. All in all if you want a relaxing place to visit I would 100% recommend a visit to Shelness.

David said...

Yes, a cuppa, if we're here..

Unknown said...

Lots to appreciate on our small island. Shellness is a lovely placoderms to wander and enjoy the wonders of nature. As you say peaceful, nice views, the sound of t(e sea and the birds, what’s not t9 like ☺️ The Hamlet is private and has an air of mystery about it too. I’ve lived on the island most of my life but apppreciate it more and more as I get older. If you visit again to do the walk to Harty and the Ferry Inn yo7 must try to visit Emley nauture reserve too, very peaceful 👍 x

Unknown said...

I will be visiting soon, my very good friend has a cabin in the hamlet & is holding her 60th birthday gathering there. I cant wait it sounds wonderful, & she & her husband adore it! Im sure I'll be so jealous after visiting!! Roll on June 2019 x

Unknown said...

Hi we found the hamlet of shellness today very mysterious place i couldnt stop looking at the place.

elmasdottir said...

We were lucky enough to rent one of the houses in Shellness, back in the 60s, for about 5 years. It was very primitive then, elsan toilets, a generator for electricity which was switched off at 9pm, and a water pump the only source of water. The joy was the peacefulness, the fact the everyone knew each other and the children were safe to run around by themselves and ride their bikes, safe in the knowledge that no one would come tearing down the road in their car.

I think it may have changed quite a lot now, as I understand that people now can buy the properties

Unknown said...

All those tacky Fish & Chip outlets and "badly dressed white flesh" - what anti-social snobs. What do you expect from a down-to-earth (or sand) holiday resort?

Anonymous said...

The hamlets have illegally put white bollards outside off their owners area somebody needs to take them away they are a danger to vehicles

Unknown said...

They have now stretched what they claim to be private beach and have put up more barriers stopping people even getting onto the beach at low tide.

Unknown said...

And the white 'barriers' are still there too!!

Renato said...

I been walking through with my dog avoiding mud and crossing boards at the beach (I got painful knees).
Soon I been surrounded by 2 residents and a "warden" tell me to leave.
On my own with my dog on the lead... not really a arrogant person on my side

Renato said...

What right they got to stop you walking through the village?
Public footpaths on the inland border of the village been closed to with a "anonymous" sign about birds nesting?
Sound arrogant and unlawful to me.
Can anyone tell me if they can stop me?

Anonymous said...

People ask what right Shellness have to claims of privacy. Ask yourself what right you have to privacy in your own garden. It is exactly the same. When your children are out playing how would you feel about strangers walking around.
Readers should also note that the unmade stretch of Shellness road adjacent to the naturist beach is not a public road and road side parking is on private land. Public right of way is along the footpath on top of the sea wall.The car park provided at the end of the road is also private and provided at the will of the land owner.
The path way between the back of the hamlet and the marsh is again over private property and provided by the owner.
Please enjoy Shell beach but remember at Shellness the area above the tide line is private.
Regards
Shellness resident of over 60 years

Duncanj said...

My parents rented a bungalow at Shellness from 1953 to 1958. We spent the whole school summer holidays there and enjoyed amazing freedom. Children didn’t mind the toilets and pumped water. The only entertainment was of our own making and there was a lot of that. I’d love to take a nostalgic visit but by the sound of it I wouldn’t be allowed in.

Duncanj said...

My parents rented a bungalow at Shellness from 1953 to 1958. We spent the whole school summer holidays there and enjoyed amazing freedom. Children didn’t mind the toilets and pumped water. The only entertainment was of our own making and there was a lot of that. I’d love to take a nostalgic visit but by the sound of it I wouldn’t be allowed in.

Anonymous said...

You can do as you like on your property, so what gives you the right to judge others.
Get your facts right about ownership before you jump to assumptions. Particularly when you are already on someone else's property. This entire area is under private ownership.

Unknown said...

You will find the opening in the top rail of the breakwater is above the mean high water mark. Therefore absolutly no restriction has been emposed on public right to access the tidal beach below mean high water.
All beaches beyond this breakwater are private. Public access is allowed to upper beaches beyond the Hamlet within the nature reserve. Restrictions still apply.

Anonymous said...

Are you serious!! What right do you imagine we have to stop you walking through the Hamlet. You would call the police if you found me in your back garden. So what do you think I will do if I catch you trespassing in the Hamlet. Exactly the same. Try and get the slightest understanding of British Law before you go shouting your mouth off.
Resident at Shellness and pissed off with people like you.

Unknown said...

So would I love this part of our lovely islsnd

Anonymous said...

Answer to your first question is -exactly the same right you have to stop me walking through your garden.
Answer to your second question- no public footpath was closed. Only private owned path. You seriously need to learn to fact check.

Kent Steve said...

We came across this lovely area at the weekend and I was trying to find out more about the hamlet and beach huts, what a great blog! Just a shame a couple of a*** holes have turned it into a slanging match over a pebble beach!

Anonymous said...

Sssshh the elders dont want the children to realise there are people in the outside world and believe in only those we do not speak of.